Back Of The House: Chef Michael Borges

Posted by Timm Higgins on Oct 29th, 2009 and filed under Food & Wine. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0. You can leave a response or trackback to this entry

We return to the city of Beaverton for this week’s Back Of The House, this time we head into the kitchen of Monteaux’s Public House, who in July brought aboard Chef Micheal Borges to run the kitchen.

Chef Borges isn’t some highfalutin’ out of towner, nope quite the opposite in fact. He’s been a Beaverton resident since he was 12 when he and his mother moved up here, graduating from Beaverton High-school. Chef Borges has 30 years in the industry and only 1 year of that wasn’t being a stove monkey, did I mention he as a AA in Electronic Engineering from OPI? It wasn’t until 1986 did he take the whole cooking thing seriously, when he worked under the direction of Chef Micheal Fry at the Riverplace Newport Bay.

In Chef Fry’s kitchen he learned what he termed as “real cooking”. He quickly moved up the ranks and within two years under Chef Fry, he was promoted to Sous-Chef. By 1989 Borges got his first chef position, NPB at Washington Square. For him this was a full-circle affair. One of his first jobs was at Farrell’s Ice Cream when Mr. Farrell still owned the place.

He would work for PCR for 23 years with stints including 12 years as the executive chef at Riverplace. In 2004 he was named opening Executive Chef of Henry’s 12th Street Tavern. He and his crew made it the place to be, but by January of 2008, Restaurants Unlimited had taken full control of the company and he was shown the door.

He’s been very active in his community where his kids attend Westview High-school, where he was auctioned off twice as a “Chef for a Night” with all the proceeds going to the school. Chef Borges has also won the Golden Fork Award, and a couple of visits to the Taste Of Portland. So now lets get to know the Chef a bit better, sound good to you?

Single/Married/Divorced?

I am happily married since 1985 to my wife Catherine.  I have 3 kids, Anthony, 20, a junior at U of O, Anna, 18, a senior at Westview, and Amanda, 11, a 6th grader at Stoller Middle School.  My wife and I met at my first job back in 1970 something or 1980 something…

What did you want to be when you be when you grew up?

In my youth, through high school I was highly involved in athletics.  I was a 3 sport athlete in football, baseball, wrestling, and track.  My favorite sport was baseball.  My best sport was also baseball where I was a Catcher.  My dream was to play for the Oakland A’s when I grew up.  I am from the Bay Area, Hayward, and have been an A’s and Raiders Fan since my youth.

What was your first job ever in food? What did you learn?

My first job in the biz was at Farrell’s, and it was as a Dishwasher (how poetic I must say).  My first kitchen job was also at Farrell’s.  It was at Farrell’s, while working as a server that I heard the kitchen calling after I realized that I wasn’t going to be a kiss-ass waiter.  After a few “situations” with the guest, I ended up back in the kitchen.

What I learned at my first job was that hard work does get rewarded, that working hard is worth the blood sweat and tears, and that if I was going to move up at all in the biz it was going to be as a result of my hard work and dedication to whatever it was that I was doing.  I tell my kids now, “your hard work now will pay off in the future….keep working hard”

Who were your early influences in the restaurant business?

Great question.  As for the hard working aspect, I was fortunate enough to have worked around highly energetic and motivated people in my early days in the kitchen.  It was all about “getting the food out” and getting it out as fast as we could.  It was like a daily competition.  My fondest memories were at TGI Fridays where I spent almost 4 years as a cook there.

I was referred to as a “hash-house cook” and a “shoemaker” later in my career after leaving Fridays before I really developed my cooking skills, technique, and knowledge.  After the “hardworking” phase came the “getting interested in food” stage.  I entered that when I worked under my first real chef at Riverplace Newport Bay.  There I learned the difference between a “Kitchen Manager” and a “Chef”.  The Chef is a kitchen manager with an extensive knowledge of food.

That lit my fire.  I wanted to learn, and later wanted to teach.

How would you describe the menu to someone who’s never had a meal at Monteauxs?

I am evolving as the new Chef here at Monteaux’s, I am learning the culture and vision of the owner, Larry Crepeaux.  Larry and his previous chef have developed a “worldly” menu which includes items like Gnocchi, Etouffee, Chicken Schnitzel, and Mongolian Beef and so on.  Most of these items were derived from the hugely popular “Country Specials” that I have inherited as one of my responsibilities to move forward with.

In addition to that, I walked into a menu that was diverse, appealing, and accommodating to the local area.  It sounds like a cliché, but there’s a little something for everyone.

As I have tweaked the menu here and there I have been mindful of keeping the favorite items that the regulars have grown to love, some with a little twist or upgrade, while introducing new ideas, a different perspective of quality and freshness, and maintaining affordability to the guest.  Yes, we are out in the burbs, but there is no reason that you can’t have a quality ingredients presented in an imaginative and understandable way at an affordable price.

So, how would I describe the menu at Monteaux’s to someone who has never been here before?  Simple:  At Monteaux’s you will receive food prepared with quality ingredients, attention to detail, consistent preparations and presentations, and not have to mortgage the house to go out for a night on the town.  You will also be able to experience cuisine from around the world each month.

It’s been said before, I know this.  But, the formula works.  Quality, Consistency, Affordability.

With the economy the way it’s been there’s been a shift back to comfort food. What would you say is your go to comfort food?

We have a couple of options to choose from actually.  Realizing that comfort food is back, I felt it important that we provide a couple of options like the Lobster Mac n Cheese, or the Blue Cheese Demy Glace Flat Iron Steak to the guest.  The Dad’s Meatloaf, a half pound Mushroom Swiss Cheese Burger.  The list goes on. (Editor Note: Sign me up for the Flat Iron and Lobster Mac N Cheese!)

Being the new sheriff in town, in regards to Monteauxs menu how often will it change? Weekly, Monthly, with the Seasons?

As mentioned before, we feature “Country Specials” every month.  So in that regard the menu goes through some form of change every month.  As for the core menu, I foresee changing seasonally.  I also envision running a nightly special or two on the weekends at first, then throughout the week.  I feel however the best way to answer the question is to say  “As needed”  That means that if we need to make a change, or take something off the menu because sales on the item are low, or I just feel like trying something new on the guest (Which this clientele loves to see) then I can just be a Chef and make it happen.

How would you describe yourself as a Chef?

I knew this one was coming!  Do you know how many times I get asked that?  For that matter, every chef gets asked that?

Thanks to shows like Hell’s Kitchen, and Iron Chef, everyone is curious about what were like behind the kitchen door.

I find it amusing. I get asked if I yell like Gordon Ramsey. I reply, “Only if I need to”. The list goes on and on.

To answer the question though, I would describe myself as a Chef who takes a lot of pride in what he does.  As one who likes to teach others.  As a coach and mentor to the younger generation in cooking and in life.  I am like the coach on the sidelines at the football game still loves to play the game (cook) and is willing to pass on his knowledge to the players who want it.  I am a Chef who is at times overly passionate about food and (at 45) still gets excited talking to others about it.  I am a Chef who still hasn’t learned everything there is to learn, who is willing to take a chance, and who is never forgets where he came from (the dish pit), meaning that I don’t mind going back to help anyone who is in the weeds be it the dish pit or the line.

Basically, I consider myself the old Cooker-dude in the back.

OK, time to spill it every Chef has one – what is your guilty pleasure food?

My dad’s side of the family is from Hawaii.  Grandmother is Portuguese, and grandfather was Portuguese/Italian.  To this day I have yet to find anyone who makes Teriyaki Anything better than my grandmother.  Hence, my love for Teriyaki anything.  My other guilty pleasure:  A homemade, all meat, piled high with cheese and homemade tomato sauce Lasagna.  MMM good.

Where do you see the industry in 5 years?

Well, how long is this recession going to last?

I feel the effects of the economy and unemployment is going to force people to continue to seek out restaurants that follow a few simple rules.  Quality, Consistency, and all at a fair and affordable price.  PCR established and lived by that standard for years, and it was successful.  They never had to close a restaurant as far as I can remember because they took care of their guests, until the end. I don’t think there will be a lot of “New” restaurants opening up at the pace that we have seen in Portland in the past.

The survivors in 2014 will be the imaginative, quality driven, guest first driven, owners and workers who focus on the right things.

The Guest!

I would like to again thank Chef Micheal for taking the time and thoughtfulness of his answers.

Monteaux’s Public House
16165 SW Regatta Lane #1000
Beaverton , OR
503.439.9942

Check back next week when we pull a ‘first’ out of our hats for the next Back Of The House.

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