This edition of “Back Of The House” is long over due, and my apologies all around.
Welcome to “Back Of The House” where you take you inside and behind the curtain of Portland’s top restaurants. The last time we spoke, I promised a “first” and I’m not disappoint. This week we take you into the kitchen of Ten 01 located in the Pearl District. Not to play favorites but over the last year or so I’ve grown attached to the Pearl District. Chef Jeff McCarthy (the subject of this weeks BOH) is the Pastry Chef for Ten 01. Not only is he turning out top of the line deserts, getting mentioned in Willamette Week for his creations (where he received best dessert of the year in 2008) but he’s a fellow blogger.
He not only blogs at his own site Mr. Jeff McCarthy , he also handles the blogging duties for the restaurant. He’s no stranger to Portland having worked at Fenouli and Carlyle before landing at Ten 01 where he’s been since January of 2008. I was lucky enough to catch up with him, as his duties keep him pretty busy. Not only does he handle the pastry station at Ten 01 he is also responsible for the dessert menu at their sister restaurant – Tabla.
Single/Married/Divorced?
I’ve been married for about one month now. Best decision I’ve made in my life.
Your Blackberry Float desert was just mentioned in the Willamette Week’s annual restaurant guide as 1 of 5 “Mind Blowing Deserts”, for those who haven’t had it can you describe it? And where did the inspiration come from, and what made you think sweet corn ice cream?
When I originally wanted to do a float I was going to use blackberries and white chocolate. The idea of a foamy ice cream drink in the summer just sounded good to me. At the time I had the idea, I was working with Kristen Murray, pastry chef extraordinaire, and she suggested the corn ice cream. She taught me a lot, not the least of which how to make custard out of corn cobs.
Who are some of your influences in the industry?
I like Sam Mason of Tailor, Micheal Laiskonis of Le Bernardin, Alex Stupak of WD-50, Johnny Iuzzini of Jean Gorges, to name a few.
What food trends do you most embrace?
Using local products.
What food trends do you wish would die a quiet death?
Cooking with chemicals just for the sake of it. If it aids in the vision of the dish, sure, do it…but meat glue? c’mon!!
Whats your favorite desert on the menu?
Right now I’m digging my new bread pudding set…I’ve come along way with that recipe and those flavors. finally nailing it I think.
How often do you change the desert menu at Ten 01? Daily/Weekly/Monthly or by the season?
I try to change it seasonally, but sometimes I will when I have a new idea.
What is it like in a kitchen at Ten-01?
The Kitchen at Ten01 is fun and exciting. There’s always something to learn and taste and I have huge windows above my station that look out on 10th ave.
You’ve said on your blog, you love bread pudding – and you’ve used it some of your deserts, what draws you to bread pudding? Is this like a memory based food for you?
If I see bread pudding on a menu, I usually order it. Unless they have cheesecake, which trumps bread pudding. I just like the richness of it. I like the idea of taking a rich buttery brioche, and soaking it in more butter and custard.
You’re going to kick the bucket tomorrow, what’s your final meal?
I’d go to Tabla for the tajarin pasta and a Hemingway cocktail. Simple and delicious.
Once again I would like to thank Chef McCarthy for taking the time. If you’re a local chef, and would like to be featured please find me on twitter @PrixFixeOnline or drop me an email at backofthehouse[at]prixfixe-online[dot]com
Ten 01
1001 Northwest Couch Street
Portland, OR 97209
(503) 226-3463
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I love bread pudding…I'll have to check this place out!
[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by Jeff Martens and Timm, Timm. Timm said: @slow_lane Hey Chef! http://tinyurl.com/yhqd43s [...]
I've gotta try that Blackberry Float!
I guess whether something "aids in the vision of the dish" is in the eye of the beholder (I have seen some pretty cool uses of meat glue, not necessarily involving meat).
P.S. It's Fenouil not Fenouli